Puppy Pre-School: Getting Off to the Right Start

     “Well, Jeff, he’s done it since he was a puppy. I don’t know why, but I doubt you can change him.”

     The behaviors in question vary greatly, but I hear this statement almost daily. My point is that many problems in older dogs begin during puppyhood. They are also much easier to prevent at that time than correct later.

     Pre-schooling your pup covers an infinite number of subjects. I’m going to outline three areas that are often the root of later behavior problems. Although each area is discussed separately, they work in concert to form your pup’s temperament.

     First allow me to let you in on the secret of dog training- CONSISTENCY and REPETITION. Properly apply this principle throughout all phases of the dog’ life and you will enjoy success. Remember, however, that consistently repeating or allowing improper behaviors will also reinforce them and cause problems throughout the dog’s life. 

     Perhaps the most overlooked area in puppy pre-school is proper socialization and bonding. Improper socialization is, without a doubt, the root of most behavior problems I encounter. It is almost always the case with severe behavior problems

     Take your pup everywhere you can. Introduce him to animals, cars, kids, buildings, roads, etc…. Don’t coddle or “rescue” your pup when he gets nervous. Instead, encourage and reassure him. You will notice that his confidence level will grow rapidly and he will shed his “boogie men”. This confidence is the foundation for his future.

     Housebreaking will be an initial concern. Last week I spoke of introducing the crate. The crate is your pup’s safe place and he should be fed and made to sleep in the crate initially. In this manner you can REGULATE the pup’s food intake and time of his feedings. Regulation is the key to housebreaking. Decide your daily schedule and plan your feeding and exercise routine accordingly.

     If possible feed twice daily. Place the appropriate amount of food in the crate and allow about 15 minutes for your pup to eat. Then take the bowl away, empty or not. Young puppies should be taken out within 5 minutes of eating. Play with him. Throw a ball. Walk him and let him get used to his collar and leash. Show him around the woods. Do something active with the puppy. Soon the puppy will stool. Lavish praise on the puppy and continue exercising. He will soon begin to understand.

     Pay attention to the pup’s body language prior to his stool. Watch for this same action in the house. When you see it, take him out. Treat watering the same way. Although your pup should always have fresh water available, make every effort to get him our after he drinks. As he grows he will be regulated to stool soon after eating and the “packages” will greatly decrease, if you do your part.

     I know this sounds overly simplified but it works every time, when repeated consistently.

     The next area that demands consistency is discipline. At this stage, discipline mostly consists of the word, “NO”. Use it. When he makes a mistake, let him know, then show him the correct behavior. For instance, if he soils on the floor, and you catch him in the act, discipline him and take him outside to finish. Then praise him. If you catch him chewing your shoe, discipline him and then give him a cold nylabone for his teething. The trick to effective discipline is not brutality. The trick is consistency and proper correction. Try it and you’ll see positive results quickly.

     Question: How many types of Schnauzers are recognized by the AKC.

     Answer to last week’s question: Another American dog breed- Black and Tan Coonhound.